1 Nov 2016

Miss Kim and Katie Q's Excellent Adventure - Day 8

Submitted by Damselfly

Our stay at the Parkway Motel in Orderville, Utah last night was pleasant.  Katie Q booked it through Air BnB and we were not sure what to expect.  Our host was pleasant, and welcomed us with information about the area including food and recreation.  The bonus was that we were only about 30 minutes from our destination for today.

At about 8:15 AM we arrived at Zion National Park.  It was just starting to see the morning light.  We stopped shortly after the park entrance at a pull off just before the long tunnel that starts the descent into the canyon.

Yes.  There are tunnels at Zion.  One is short, and one is long.  Long enough that a person with claustrophobia would have some anxiety about passing through.  More about the tunnels later.

Zion is yet another unique landscape.   There are red, sheer cliffs that create the canyon.  The red color is due to mineral deposits… mainly iron.  The rock of the canyon also supports amazing plant life.  How can that be in the desert?  There is water that is forced out of the rock making it “weep”, feeding the vegetation.  The vegetation feeds the wildlife.

The Virgin River is a relatively small river that cuts through Zion.  Literally.  Despite its small size, this river is responsible for creating Zion.  Over the years it has washed away Navajo sandstone from the walls leaving the park as a national monument. Weather is the force behind this creation.  Flash flooding washes away one million tons of sediment a year. 

 Zion is rich in history for the Paiute Indian people.   The park itself uses that spirituality.  There are names like Angel’s Landing, The Temple, and The Grotto to describe locations.  When you are IN this place you feel it all around you.

It is a spiritual experience.  

When we looked at the park trail map, we found a short one mile hike for a place called Canyon Overlook.  We thought given the morning light, we would start our tour of the park at that spot.  The trail was only a mile in length, but it was steep terrain.  The trail to Canyon Overlook is considered “moderate”.  It is quite steep, and there are paths and stairs carved into the rock. 
 Some places had hand rails and safety fences.  The climb to the top was well worth the effort.  We had a view of the canyon below and all around.  What a perfect way to start the day!

I mentioned wildlife earlier.  At the parking area and on the way up the trail we were early enough to catch a few big horn sheep grazing in the brush… along a CLIFF!  These are some adaptable creatures.  We watched them work their way up along tiny ledges to find the grasses above.  

After the overlook hike, we headed further into the park.  The entrance took us through a long dark tunnel… IN the stone.  The tunnel was finished in 1930.  There are “windows” cut at intervals to allow some light to come inside.  Otherwise, it is dark.  When we reached the end of the tunnel, we descended a winding road down to the bottom of the canyon.  We drove along the river marveling at the magnificent stone walls that flank it.  

At the bottom, the canyon opens up a bit.  There is a scenic drive through the park that is strictly controlled. There are a couple of designated parking areas for visitors that give access to a free shuttle service that runs up and down the canyon May through November.  The shuttle service was established to help reduce the amount of car traffic through the park given over two million people visit annually.

We parked at the museum and awaited our ride.  

The shuttle came, and we rode to the far end of the canyon and got out to explore along the river.  There are hiking trails all through the park.  Some are labeled “easy” and are paved allowing access for people walking or using wheelchairs.  Others are “moderate” and are one to two hours long, with significant inclines and narrow passes.  Those listed as “strenuous” are miles long, and require a bit more preparation and fitness to complete.  

Then there are rock climbs.

We saw people scaling some of the rock faces.  They looked like tiny inchworms on the red rock.  One of our bus drivers told us it would take a team of two people two to three days to climb the distance to the top.  The climbers then descend via the established hiking trails.  Katie Q and I concluded that spending the night hanging from a cliff was not on either of our “to do” lists.  More power to those folks that do!

Our journey through the park took us to a place called Weeping Rock.  There are natural springs in the ground that with enough force, are pushed through layers in the rock and create natural waterfalls along the rock face.  There is plant life that clings to the rock in these areas.  It is truly alive.

One of our last stops was visiting Emerald Pools.  On the way along the half mile trail we saw a mule deer doe feeding with her twins, and heard birds singing in the pine trees.  We enjoyed their melody although we could not see them.  Emerald Pools is a series of three small pools carved into a rock ledge from a waterfall spilling from far above.  If we would have had more time, we would have continued up to the upper pools, but that was not for this trip.

When we had covered the places we wanted to see, we boarded the shuttle and headed back to our parking area.  We were again tired and hungry.  That has been a theme this trip.  We get so engrossed in where we are that we forget about eating and resting.  

Back at the car, the hunger monster came to life.  We wanted food.  

We left the park and headed to the town of Kanab.  Katie Q spotted a restaurant there listed as being vegan-friendly.  This being International Vegan Day, I elected to at least eat “vegetarian” to honor her choice this day.  It took us about 30 minutes to get there.

They were closed.

We were NOT happy and we were still hungry.

We knew there was a health food market in town and went on a search.  We found it.  It was a tiny market, but had some snack foods we thought we would enjoy.  We asked if there was any place else in town that would be considered “vegan friendly”.  The owner gave us two options.  We decided to try Fusion House.

Fusion House was not only “vegan friendly”, but they had an entire page of vegan options!  Katie Q had a Kung Pao Chick’n and I had the Szechuan Beef-less.  No meat.  The meat substitutes were made of wheat and soy.  The dishes were spicy and delicious.  My beef-less tasted like tender beef in the spicy sauce.

Oh!  They served beer!  Go figure…

We both enjoyed an Uinta Brewing Company Hoodoo in honor of our visit to Utah.  It is a Kölsch style ale and we enjoyed every drop.  Not too heavy and good with a spicy meal.  

We left Kenab and headed on to our next destination.

Our drive took us through the southern end of Utah, into the desert.  We passed through Glen Canyon Recreation Area and near Lake Powell.  The desert valley opened up and we could picture this area full of water at one point, eroding away at the sandstone, leaving monstrous columns.  

Once we passed by Lake Powell, we said good bye to Utah and hello to Arizona.

We drove a bit, looking for the town of Page where we would make a turn south.  In Page, Katie Q remembered that Horseshoe Bend was nearby.  The bend is a particular spot on the Colorado River.  We were so close, why not?

Within 10 minutes, we were at the parking area.  It was very busy with cars and tour buses.  There was  a three-quarter of a mile walk up a dune and down to the edge of the canyon.  There are warning signs that indicate there is no railing along the canyon. 

There are no railings along the canyon.

It is a steep drop to the river below.  But oh the view!

The bend is truly in the shape of a horseshoe!  A giant, rocks-rimmed horseshoe.  We took a walk around, snapping photos and taking in the surroundings.  After our “wow” moment and a “selfie” thanks to another friendly visitor, we were on the road.

As we drove along Highway 89, the sun was sinking in the sky.  We commented that it would have been fantastic to remain at Horseshoe Bend for sunset.  Oh well.  Maybe next trip?

We were given our own light show on the drive along the highway.  The mesas to our left were turning bright and red and the clouds surrounding the sun were rimmed in brilliant orange.  As the sun continued to drop, the clouds changed to crimson.  The moon was visible as a skinny sliver.  We saw houses along the highway and were a bit envious that these folks see THIS sky every evening.  We are glad we could see it.

We ate snacks along the drive to our next destination, calling that dinner.  Time spent this evening seeing amazing sights and witnessing the changing sky was better than any meal could provide.  

We have arrived at our resting place well after dark.  

It has been another day of wonder.  As we rest and sip a Hoodoo brew, we are certain that life is good.

 

 

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